Here is a quick build I did for this year's Christmas party. I decided to take a couple hours to hack together a pair of Steampunkish Christmas Goggles using an inexpensive set of Oxy Acetylene Welding goggles and things I had around my work bench.

First, the design was to be more decorative than functional. Actually wearing these over your eyes wouldn't really work well, since the lenses are only translucent, not transparent.

The key building component is a set of Oxy-Acetylene Welding goggles. These were $12 off Amazon, but you could always make your own of course. Oxy-Acetylene Welding goggles

One thing to keep in mind about these is you don't want to use them for any sort of Arc or Mig welding, as the glass isn't nearly dark enough. This hack is totally reversible as well, so can use these goggles for their intended purpose if you like, once your Steampunk Christmas is over.

The front of the goggles unscrew, and using the lens as a template I traced out circles of translucent plastic using red and green CD jewel cases I had laying around. I also cut out clear disks as well from the same jewel case. Having two layers, give the new lenses some thickness, which will help keep your LEDs in place without having to use hot glue, etc..

Using my trusty dremel tool, holes are drilled through the colored and transparent lenses to mount the LEDs. And then in the right hand eye piece I mounted a BlinkM I2C controlled multicolor LED from Sparkfun.

This is all controlled using a SX28 development board from Parallax. I'm not actually controlling the BlinkM, since it's demo mode pretty much did what I liked, though with the addition of two extra wires, it could also be controlled from the SX chip.

All the wiring, with the exception of the breadboard, is soldered, and then heat shrunk. Then wire ties keep everything in place on the microcontroller board. One flaw with this design, is the board is a bit large to wear on your head, so I'd suggest either running the wiring to a shirt pocket housing the controller, or go with some surface mount components and a protoboard if you want to really make things small.

The fun is seeing everything in action: